Belfast became in time the most famous linen producing center in history. The majority of the world's linen was produced there during the Victorian era. Some religions even made rules that involved linen or they just mention them in religious concept. The Jewish faith restricts wearing of mixture of linen and wool. Linen is also mentioned in the Bible in Proverbs Bible also mentions that angels wear linen.
Quality is very important in linen production. The longest possible fibers are got when the flax is either hand-harvested by pulling up the entire plant or when stalks are cut very close to the root.
Seeds are then removed from the plant and fibers are loosened from the stalk. Woody portion of the stalks are removed by crushing between two metal rollers which separates fibers. Because of the method that flax fibers are grown and the method that linen is made; this textile is extremely sustainable compared to other textiles such as synthetics. Linen is biodegradable as well.
For companies that value sustainability, it is important that the line producers that they choose do not include processes that damage the environment. For example, during the retting process outlined above, some companies choose to use a chemical retting procedure that speeds up the process but can create damaging effects when the wastewater is released.
Linen is one of the most recognizable types of linen available in the market. Damask linen is more delicate and is often compared to embroidery. This type of design is often used for drapery and upholstery, as well as for linen napkins, tablecloths and other home textile pieces. Plain-woven linen is used to make kitchen linens like towels.
It is also a favorite linen for heavy-duty clothing like butcher aprons and for wiping glassware. Loosely-woven linen is not as durable as other types but is highly absorbent. It is used often for reusable diapers and sanitary napkins. Sheeting linen is commonly used to construct apparel because of its untextured appearance.
Sheeting fabric is also used for bed linens, drapery linings, tablecloths, tents and quilt backs. Linen is a natural and valuable textile that has long been used to construct apparel, bed linens, homeware like towels and tablecloths, and other products.
Ancient Egyptian linen, although coarse compared with modern linen, was used for clothing, currency, furnishings, decorations and most famously as the burial garment for mummies.
Modern day linen is still made much the same as it was back in the days of Ancient Egypt. The first step in making a linen textile is threshing, which is the process used to remove the seeds. Not all farmers do this as it means waiting for the seeds to grow on the plant. The fibres are actually worth more before the seeds are ready as the nutrients are still inside the plant, making for better fibre.
But for those that do, the plant is allowed to dry for several weeks and is then thrashed in order to break the seed pods and collect the seeds for the next season. Retting, or steeping, is the process of removing the actual fibre from inside the flax plant stalk.
The plant is exposed to varying amounts of water, depending on the process used, in order to break down the cells inside the plant, allowing for long, unbroken fibres to be collected. Water retting is the most commonly used practice and usually results in the highest quality fibres.
The bundled flax plants are weighted down and left in stagnant or slowly-moving waters, such as ponds, bogs and streams. As a rule, the more stagnant the water source, the faster the retting process and depending on water temperature, can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.
Stream retting, although slowest, is usually preferred as it creates cleaner fibres. Tank retting is often fastest as the water is completely stagnant. Large cement vats are used because the acidic waste from the plants is usually so corrosive it eats through metal. The flax stalks are soaked for hours to remove dirt and pigment, the water is changed and the bundles allowed to soak for more days. The only issue with this method is the proper, or more often improper, disposal of the sullied water that can be particularly harmful to people and animals if mixed into the water supply.
Dew retting is the preferred method in areas where water sources are limited or when a greater importance is placed on a low environmental impact. Flax stalks are laid evenly on flat turf, where the combination of air, sun, and dew causes the stems to dissolve within weeks.
Dew-retted fibres, although environmentally friendly, are typically of poorer quality and darker pigment than water retted fibres. After retting the fibres are allowed to dry. Then they are scutched which breaks down any remaining wood from the stem and removes it, and combed or heckled in order to separate the short and long fibres. As with all things textile, the short fibres are usually coarser and less valuable. Longer fibres tend to be better quality and end up making smoother and softer fabric.
Once the fibres have been fully processed they can be spun into yarn and then milled into fabric. Why not take a look at our range of linen here shirting and here suiting , or find out what makes it so special!
Like chefs who are inspired by delicious ingredients, as tailors, we are inspired by the exceptional fabrics that make up our bespoke suits.
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